Addis Ababa
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Addis Ababa
Capital of one the world's fastest-growing economies, Addis Ababa (also spelled Addis Abeba) is a city in motion, catching up to Ethiopia's zooming commercial development in stride. At times gauche and somewhat rough around the edges, it is nonetheless worth more than a single night in transit, if only for the country's finest dining, shopping and of-the-moment urban developments.Find your trip
The capital's Ethnological Museum is considered to be one of the finest on the continent. Intricately arranged exhibits narrate the story of Ethiopia and its peoples. The museum spans two floors of the former residence of Emperor Haile Selassie, whose rooms are preserved in nearly their original state and open to visitors. Detailed written explanations are provided.
The National Museum of Ethiopia contains a plethora of cultural artefacts. Its most notable exhibit, however, is the cast of Lucy — a female skeleton of the Australopithecus afarensis species, discovered in Ethiopia in 1974 and dating back as far as 3.2 million years. Art lovers will appreciate the museum's collection of Ethiopian art from the 14th to the 20th centuries.
The chilling, heartbreaking exhibits of the Red Terror Martyrs' Memorial Museum are guaranteed to leave no visitor indifferent. Atrocities commuted during Mengistu’s Derg regime are laid bare, to be processed at your own pace or with an English-speaking guide. The museum operates on donations alone; entry is free of charge.
A steep climb (or car ride) up Mount Entoto is worth the time if only for the spectacular views over sprawling Addis Ababa unfolding from the top. On Sunday, the hilltop Maryam Church is open for mass (closed other days of the week), and the Entoto Maryam Museum showcases artefacts and personal belongings of Emperor Menelik, whose humble palace still stands not too far away.
Typically octagonal, the stern-looking, neoclassical St George Cathedral was where Ethiopian rulers were inaugurated ever since its construction by the order of Emperor Menelik II, who dedicated the church to Ethiopia's patron saint, St George. Adjacent to the church is a museum with religious paraphernalia.
It takes heart to venture into the chaotic-looking, sprawling marketplace of Addis Ababa. Despite the first impression, the market is very much organised, subdivided into "quarters" dedicated to a specific kind of wares. Definitely come with a guide to help you navigate. Many vendors keep goods inside their permanent stalls, so what is being sold might not be apparent at first glance. Items worth browsing for are leather goods, silver jewellery, spices, and more.
The second in importance house of worship in Ethiopia — the Holy Trinity Cathedral — contains the tombs of the Former Emperor Haile Selassie and his wife. Many more prominent figures of the country's history are buried on its compounds. The building itself is a curious mix of international styles.
The capital's atmospheric "old town" is known as the Piazza. The name gestures towards the brief period of the Italian presence in the country. The area still has hints of Italian in its vibe today, and there are a few landmarks remaining from the first half of the 20th century. This is the go-to neighbourhood for good places to eat and budget accommodation.
The capital's Ethnological Museum is considered to be one of the finest on the continent. Intricately arranged exhibits narrate the story of Ethiopia and its peoples. The museum spans two floors of the former residence of Emperor Haile Selassie, whose rooms are preserved in nearly their original state and open to visitors. Detailed written explanations are provided.
The National Museum of Ethiopia contains a plethora of cultural artefacts. Its most notable exhibit, however, is the cast of Lucy — a female skeleton of the Australopithecus afarensis species, discovered in Ethiopia in 1974 and dating back as far as 3.2 million years. Art lovers will appreciate the museum's collection of Ethiopian art from the 14th to the 20th centuries.
SoleRebels was the first footwear producer to receive certification from the World Fair Trade Organisation. Their cause is to provide its workers with honest compensation and contribute to sustainable development by using recycled car tires and natural fabrics in shoe production. And it's not just shoes, but clothing and accessories too.
The art gallery and shop hybrid, St George is definitely not for travellers on a budget, but those looking to purchase Ethiopian antiques or artworks. Anything from scarves and bed linens to paintings by celebrated artists. Also stocks jewellery and books.
Much more modest in size, but with that also a lot more manageable, the Shiro Meda Market (also spelled "Chiromeda") sells Ethiopian textiles in all their forms, from Ethiopian wedding dresses to various types of clothing, linens, and fabrics. Make use of a guide if you can.
This quiet oasis of a workshop, only a stone's throw away from the Addis Ababa airport, is a great place to shop if the Mercato proves to be a tad overwhelming. Salem's is a much more relaxed experience that allows you to browse at your own leisure, selecting from fabrics, clothing, jewellery, woven items, and other crafts produced directly on site.
The remarkably stylish bags of this Ethiopian label are a treat one really shouldn't deny themselves when in Addis. Functional and modern, the brand's pieces all contain a slither of traditional ornament, giving the items individual character.
The bi-annual happening that is Anbar Marketplace (locations vary) gathers the best of local producers, many without brick-and-mortar shops, to showcase and sell their wares, from clothing and jewellery to all manner of edibles. There is a small entrance fee; live music plays and dining options are abundant.
SoleRebels was the first footwear producer to receive certification from the World Fair Trade Organisation. Their cause is to provide its workers with honest compensation and contribute to sustainable development by using recycled car tires and natural fabrics in shoe production. And it's not just shoes, but clothing and accessories too.
The art gallery and shop hybrid, St George is definitely not for travellers on a budget, but those looking to purchase Ethiopian antiques or artworks. Anything from scarves and bed linens to paintings by celebrated artists. Also stocks jewellery and books.
Addis Ababa is a rather safe city where violent crime is uncommon, but travellers are advised to exercise vigilance and be weary of pick-pocketing and muggings which occur fairly frequently, and are not exclusively targeted at tourists (these have been especially common along Churchill Avenue, in Piazza and Meskal Square). If invited for an unsolicited "culture show" decline politely but firmly, and continue on your way. This is one scam to which tourists have often fallen prey. Avoid talking to anyone approaching to sell you things in the street. Homosexuality remains both illegal (with punishments of up to 10 years imprisonment if convicted) and severely morally condemned in Ethiopia. So strong is the sentiment, that some hotels may refuse business to clients suspected of being in a same-sex relationship. It is strongly advised that same-sex couples keep a very low profile and avoid any form of public displays of affection.
Entry visas to Ethiopia are necessary for citizens of all countries with the exception of Djibouti and Kenya. Travellers must apply for visas in advance, but visas on arrival are issued at the Addis Ababa International Airport to nationals of 40 countries: Argentina, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brazil, Canada, China, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hong Kong, India, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Japan, Kuwait, Luxembourg, Macau, Mexico, Netherlands, New Zealand, North Korea, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Russia, Slovakia, South Africa, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, United Kingdom, United States. As of 2017, nationals of most countries eligible for visa on arrival can also apply for eVisa (first point of entry for eVisa holders must be Addis Ababa Bole International Airport).
Although the sun shines nearly all year in Addis Ababa, the absolute best time to visit is during the dry season, roughly from September to March. This period is also when two of Ethiopia's major festivals (Meskel and Timkat) are celebrated, which is done with great swing and accompanied by major processions. The summer months (June to August, the "rainy season") aren't the most favourable, especially for trips to elsewhere in the country.
Although the Bole International Airport is only a few kilometres away from the city centre, it can get quite costly to reach Addis Ababa if no prior transfer arrangements are made. It is strongly recommended to inquire with your hotel about possible pick-up/transfer service (these are offered by most lodgings). There are two types of taxis in Addis Ababa Bole Airport: private taxis, which are blue and white, and government taxis, which are yellow/cream in colour and run by the National Tour Operation (NTO). Yellow taxis can be hired at the airport arrivals area. Make sure the fare is agreed upon before departure.
Ethiopian food is usually eaten without any cutlery. There will always be a way to wash your hands before your meal: either a handwashing station or a basin and a pitcher of water at your table. If you arrive at the table after everyone has washed their hands, do not give a handshake. Instead, lightly grasp the person's whist when they offer it to you. Just touching wrists is fine, too. Traditional meals are served on a communal plate and everyone at the table eats together. Don't reach across the table — just have what's close to you. You are expected to tear off a piece of injera, scoop some food with it and sent it directly into your mouth. Do so with your right hand, since the left hand in considered unclean. When someone offers to place a small bite of food into your mouth — it's called the "gursha". Accept in graciously, as it is a sign of respect. Some people take their shoes inside the house. Follow your host's example of this. You must greet everyone personally, starting with the eldest person present. The eldest person in the room is the one who starts the meal. It would be impolite to start eating before them. On Wednesday and Friday, Orthodox Christians in Ethiopia fast. They do not eat or drink until 3 pm and eat only vegan food the rest of the day. Perhaps paradoxically, fish is allowed.
Public busses aren't the most efficient way of getting around. Instead, most locals use the smaller, faster blue-and-white mini-busses. Fares in these are very moderate and normally fixed. Destinations will often be yelled out by staff on board the mini bus at major intersections/hubs. Addis Ababa now also has a light rail system, with lines connecting north and south (stops at Merkato, Meskal Square, and Menelik II Square), and east and west (stops at Meskal Square and Mexico Square). Tickets may be purchased at stations.
Most taxis in Addis operate from 6 am to 11 pm. If you share a taxi with strangers, the normal fare is split between the group. If you want to visit a lot of places in Addis Ababa, negotiate with a driver for a half- or full-day fare. Taxis can be found outside larger hotels, as well as the National Theatre, national stadium and on De Gaulle Square in the Piazza. At night, many line up outside the nightclubs. You can use the RIDE app to get a car Uber-style, too.
You can find Gishen Pharmacy close to the airport.
Addis Ababa is a rather safe city where violent crime is uncommon, but travellers are advised to exercise vigilance and be weary of pick-pocketing and muggings which occur fairly frequently, and are not exclusively targeted at tourists (these have been especially common along Churchill Avenue, in Piazza and Meskal Square). If invited for an unsolicited "culture show" decline politely but firmly, and continue on your way. This is one scam to which tourists have often fallen prey. Avoid talking to anyone approaching to sell you things in the street. Homosexuality remains both illegal (with punishments of up to 10 years imprisonment if convicted) and severely morally condemned in Ethiopia. So strong is the sentiment, that some hotels may refuse business to clients suspected of being in a same-sex relationship. It is strongly advised that same-sex couples keep a very low profile and avoid any form of public displays of affection.
Entry visas to Ethiopia are necessary for citizens of all countries with the exception of Djibouti and Kenya. Travellers must apply for visas in advance, but visas on arrival are issued at the Addis Ababa International Airport to nationals of 40 countries: Argentina, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brazil, Canada, China, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hong Kong, India, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Japan, Kuwait, Luxembourg, Macau, Mexico, Netherlands, New Zealand, North Korea, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Russia, Slovakia, South Africa, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, United Kingdom, United States. As of 2017, nationals of most countries eligible for visa on arrival can also apply for eVisa (first point of entry for eVisa holders must be Addis Ababa Bole International Airport).